Eating traditional food at a Korean Hanjeongsik

Last September, we were back in South Korea for just over two weeks (this time with our little boy). One thing we do everytime we visit is to eat at a traditional Korean hanjeongsik. This is just the best way to taste many different local dishes in one go and I just love seeing the huge number of bowls in front of me with so many delicious things to try. Translated to English, hanjeongsik means ‘full course meal’ (or similar) and is made up of many traditional dishes which are shared.

This is such a brilliant experience that I’d recommend to anyone visiting Korea. And this time, we were with our friend Jenny and our toddler who is a brilliant and adventurous eater. The restaurant Jenny chose for us is called Sandeulhae, and is very close to the Olympic park and world peace gate. I’ve included the map at the bottom for anyone headed that way soon!

We ordered three meal sets plus a sizzling hot bowl of dakgalbi to share. This, with the incredible selection of banchan, was enough food for about six hungry adults and it pains me that we didn’t manage to eat it all. Banchan, if you don’t know, is the collective name for small side dishes served along with your meal. It’s usually a mix of hot and cold dishes including staples like kimchi, as well as bean sprouts (kongnamul) and stir fried anchovies (myulchi bokkeum).

The food arrived on a huge tray which slides across the table. An amazing idea and impressive way to serve!

Here’s some of what we ate:

• Dakgalbi (spicy stir fried chicken)
• Haemul pajeon (seafood pancake)
• Bossam (pork shoulder with lettuce wraps and delicious extras)
• Ganjang gejang (soy marinated raw crab)
• Gulbi-gui (salted and fried fish, usually yellow corvina)
• Chonggak (radish ‘batchelor’ kimchi)

Where to start? The volume of dishes, the smells and colours, was mesmerising. Absolute heaven. And the range of dishes was great – some cold, some hot, some spicy, some not. This meant there was something for everyone and although we had some food with us for our little boy, he tucked into rice and fish and even tried the myulchi!

The dakgalbi was fantastic. It’s not part of the set meal but Jenny insisted we order it additionally. I’ve eaten this a few times, including on the famous Dakgalbi Street in Chuncheon but honestly, this was the best. Spicy, sweet and earthy, I ate alot! It was wetter than usual (usually grilled) and more like a stew, with some veggies in there too. And had a good kick!

The Bossam was also delicious. Delicate slices of boiled pork belly with a salty shrimp dipping sauce and fiery mumallaengi-muchim which is made with dried radish strips. We wrapped the meat and radish in lettuce leaves accompanided with a bite of a long green chilli. The soft texture of the meat alongside the crunchy lettuce and radish is really good. And the idea is to get the whole thing in your mouth in one go!

Haemul pajeon is one of my favourite Korean dishes. A large pancake filled with seafood, chillies and spring onions. It’s usually served with a spicy soy dipping sauce (as is the case here) which is just perfect. This was one of the best I’ve eaten (only beaten, understandably, by one in Jeju!).

Heading to Seoul? Be sure to eat at a traditional Korean hanjeongsik like this one!

Sandeulhae is a small chain of Korean hanjeongsik restaurants across Seoul. The one we ate at was near the Olympic Park in Song-pa district but there are also ones in Seocho / Gangnam areas of the city. And for the same full course experience, look for anywhere calling itself a hanjeongsik.